Whether you are looking for a traditional poker table, Texas hold’em poker table or a hexagon poker table this collection of poker table plans will help you to complete a professional project
An octagon poker table is the ideal way to enjoy a night of poker at your home. Every player has a section with room for drinks as well as a good playing surface. Rather than buying an octagon poker table, you can make your own. Here you will learn how to build a round poker table. This table is extremely easy to build and costs very little in supplies. The downside of buiding a round poker table is that you are not likely to get a full game of 10 players seated around it. This table plays best with 5-7 players only. For about $300 you can build your very own poker table! This octagonal table can be used for poker, other card games o. Step 7 - Attach Frame to Table Top. Have the table top laying flat with the bottom side up. Lay the frame on top of the table top. Make sure that the frame is centered in both directions on the top. Use a pencil to outline the frame onto the table top. Outline both inside and outside of frame, including the center support and leg mounts.
Always read the poker table plans carefully and make sure that there is enough information provided for you to be able to complete the project - before you invest in materials. Some of the plans are excellent, giving a great deal of instruction in text, pictures and drawings while other plans are only drawings and still others are only sketches.
Not only am I going to show you how to build your own poker table for under $200, I'm also going to give you the free poker table plans as well as a step by step guide to teach you exactly how to build a poker table or poker table top. Building your own poker table is actually an extremely easy task.
As well, some of the poker table plans, require a woodworking shop that is outfitted with a good selection of stationary power tools such as a table saw, jointer and thickness planer.
These poker table plans are for the intermediate to expert woodworker.
This is the 1st part of a multi-part series. View the rest:
This is the first in a series of posts recording my experience building a solid oak, octagon-shaped poker or game table. It will be written as I work on the table, hopefully all within the next few weeks.
Let me be clear: I am not a professional woodworker. I simply enjoy building things as a hobby, and I try to build things I know I’ll use and love. Since my family and I love board and card games, a table like this is a perfect project for me.
I’ll do my best to provide as much detail as I can throughout the process, and I’ll try to take a lot of photos. With that…
Whenever I do a project like this, I always try to work with commonly available wood stock sizes and materials, so it’s cost-effective and easy for someone else to replicate. Keeping that in mind, I tend to draw up plans based around this philosophy.
I also decided to buy the pedestal base and legs already made from a great little company in Tennessee called Adams Wood Products. Building something like that is probably beyond my ability, so for a pretty reasonable price, I just had them ship a set to me. It’ll save me a lot of time and, probably, frustration.
To start, the playing surface will be made up of 8 pieces that each look like this:
Once you cut out 8 of them and glue them together, the goal is to end up with something like this:
I’ve made some calculations based on using a 4′×4′ piece of plywood as the table base and determined the following measurements:
I’m not sure of the exact dimensions of the chip holder area or the cup holder hole yet, since I haven’t gotten the cup holders in the mail yet. I’ll wait until then to see what size hole I need. Then, I’ll want to match the cup holder width to the width of the chip holder area, just to make it nice and consistent.
Pro Tip: Order your cup holders, felt, etc. in advance. And don’t trust the manufacturer’s measurements on things like cup holder hole size. Wait until you get the materials in and measure it yourself. I bought a hole cutting drill bit based on the size the manufacturer gave and the cup holders didn’t fit! Lesson learned.
You’ll notice I made the chip holder area closer to the inner edge. The reason for this is that I’ll be adding a bullnose edge and a vertical skirt underneath this layer, so I need a little extra breathing room. Here’s a cross section of what I mean:
This is all I’m going to use for planning purposes, though there’s a lot more going on in my head. I’ll try and expand upon that as I go through the process of the build.
Here’s what the final materials list ended up being:
For the stain, I’m using Minwax English Chestnut for the color. For the polyurethane, I’m using Minwax Fast-Drying Polyurethane in Satin finish.
Stay tuned. The next step will cover shaping the 8 pieces for the table top and fitting them together.